Hard to believe a year ago this month I was busy making my 18th century chemise and stays in preparation for Fetes Galantes at Versailles. And then the pandemic happened and I got as far as the mock-up for my robe a la francaise. With no idea when things will normalize, globally, as least I’m at a good stopping point. And I’m using this time to document finished projects on the blog, and finish other projects I started a long time ago. Here’s how I made my linen chemise and stays.
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My first foray into the 18th century was Outlander driven, and I had just learned how to sew. I’ve learned so much since then! Years ago, I purchased a chemise on Etsy that needed replacing with natural fibers, specifically linen to absorb and wick moisture. This time for both chemise and stays, I used Simplicity/American Duchess 8579. The chemise came together so quickly, I have no in-between pictures. It is blissfully easy pattern!
Pattern: Simplicity 8579 Women’s 18th Century Undergarments Historical Costume Sewing Pattern, Sizes 14-22
I really appreciate the strapless feature of these stays, as I would fight witht the shoulder straps on my last set. I also like that these stays are already closed in the front, so lacing is only in the back. I used scrap Italian linen from my husband’s Jedi costume, and quickly put these pieces together. I’m using light slate blue linen for the outside, and light taupe for the liner. The stays pattern requires paying attention to instructions, or know how enough to assemble on your own. Don’t be like me though, read the directions. I’ve been burned by my own impatience before.
I marked the boning channels on my first set of stays with a pencil, because I didn’t know any better…but this time I used heat erase fabric pens. What a game changer! I was able to mark everything, stitch the channels, iron the markings away, then insert the boning like I actually knew what I was doing. And after years and years, I’m still on my first package of natural reed boning, which is my prefered boning medium. It’s lightweight, affordable, and it’s strong enough to hold the girls in place while flexing a bit with the body. Huge fan!
Heat erase pens: Madam Sew Heat Erasable Fabric Marking Pens with 4 Refills for Quilting, Sewing and Dressmaking (4 Piece Set)
Boning: Commonwealth Basket Flat Oval Reed 3/16-Inch 1-Pound Coil, Approximately 275-Feet
Don’t let anyone tell you you’re not allowed to use metal eyelets/grommets. This is an undergarment, and if you’re a historical costuming purist, you’re probably not reading this blog anyway. I’m a corner cutter and mad woman with a wine opener. Same goes with binding, mine are sloppy and machine sewn, and I’m cool with it. They’re undergarments, after all. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Pictured above left are the finished chemise and stays (tied in the front rather than hooked), as well as the panniers (pocket hoops/side hoops) that I made years ago. I thought I might attempt a full hoop for this costume, but it was a disaster, and I’ve since decided I will wear (and travel with) the side hoops going forward. You can see my panniers both ways below. Above right is a snapshot of the red and ivory robe a la francaise that I made as a mock-up.
GOOD: Sewing 18th Century Pocket Hoops
BAD: Grand Pannier: What Not to Do
Up next is an upgrade I made to my 18th century bergere hat, and onto other recent 18th century garments.
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