I usually costume Claire from Outlander, and I have outfits from the first 3 seasons. But in season 4, a costume worn by Brianna (Bree) caught my eye, and I started working on it before the first episode even aired. I made Brianna’s patchwork shirt that she wore while hunting with Jaime in episode 409, The Birds and the Bees. This one underappreciated article of clothing with very little screen time became a true labor of love over the course of about four months. Here’s my process…
This post contains affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, Red Shoes. Red Wine. will earn a small commission for the referral at no cost to you. Read more about affiliates & disclaimers here. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Above images: Terry Dresbach on Twitter
I follow Terry Dresbach, the costume designer for Outlander, on Twitter. She posts her reference photos and discusses her costume work from the show, which is invaluable to those of us that work via screenshots. The images above are from her Twitter account, and were very helpful while shopping for, and sewing my own Brianna shirt.
I snatched up a vintage Guatemalan cross-body bag on Etsy (a VERY lucky find) and old fabric scraps on ebay, and the rest of my supplies were found on Amazon. My intention was not to make the full screen accurate costume, but to make and wear only the patchwork shirt casually with jeans. So understanding that Brianna’s shirt was likely an 18th century man’s shirt, I chose to purchase a modern linen shirt (CAMIXA Women’s Linen Shirt Dress Button-Down Casual Tunic Simple Chic Coverup Snow White, XL) for myself. I also purchased an embroider starter pack (Premium Rainbow Color Embroidery Floss and Free Set of Embroidery Needles), as this was my first attempt at embroidery, ever.
And then I got intimidated, not knowing where to start, and sat on this project for months. It wasn’t until I went to a simple stitching workshop at Houston Museum of Fine Arts that I got over my mental block and was ready to move forward with Bree’s shirt. My little denim circle with the random little denim patches gave me the confidence I needed, and is displayed in my craft room as a reminder to just chill out.
So I just started cutting patches in different sizes and colors, not really worrying about perfect corners or anything. I used scraps from my prior projects that were roughly 18th century, and used scraps from the Ebay purchase that were roughly mid-century to 1970’s. I tea stained a few embroidery skeins, grabbed a few spools of all-purpose thread, and bagged up the patches to work on during our cruise.
During my down time on cruises, I usually read. But this time I listened to Good Omens on Audible while sewing patches on my linen shirt. Once I got started with the first couple patches in the collar, I was on a roll! I sewed patches with no real plan, other than the overall framework of the Outlander shirt, and I practiced new (to me) skills like darning, leaf embroidery (mine looks more like an artichoke, and that’s okay), exes and stars, and closed blanket stitches. Most of the patches are sewn on with a simple running stitch, because that was easiest for me. I was able to finish the entire front and collar of the shirt during the cruise, an overnight in Miami, and on the flight home. That 8-day Southern Caribbean cruise was relaxing AND productive!
With a few weeks between the cruise and Costume College, where I wanted to debut the shirt, I was able to finish the back and sleeves during TV time. I also replaced the white plastic buttons with coconut shell buttons (Assortment Natural Round Brown Wood Coconut Shell Buttons) for a more natural look. The whole process was surprisingly therapeutic, regardless of the countless times I pricked my fingers with the needles (worth it!).
In the show, Brianna wears her shirt with a waistcoat, belt, cross-body bag, and buckskin. When I attended Costume College, I wore the shirt with my vintage cross-body bag, taupe over-the-knee boots, and a leather belt handmade for me by Kristen Jones from the Outlander/Highland Inspired Costume Facebook group that I’m in. I have a similar belt from Amazon that I wore with my Season 3 Claire costume, but Kristen’s is better.
[Shop: Faux Suede Over The Knee Boots (Taupe)]
I learn new skills with every costuming project, and this one has made me the most proud. I’m eagerly awaiting the first cold front down here in Houston so I can wear it to work with the boots on some casual Friday. Or just out and about like I did in Atlanta for DragonCon. I plan on making the teal waistcoat as well, and perhaps wearing it to the Texas Renaissance festival with a brown petticoat (depending on the weather, of course). And I have a few patches left to make my mother a simpler patched shirt…it’s going to be a surprise so don’t tell her, okay?
Outlander inspired costumes also on the blog:
Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 2 (& the Red Shoes)
Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (Additions)
Outlander Inspired Druid Lanterns (DIY)
Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 3
Costuming Outlander Inspired “Cross Creek” Claire
Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (c. 1945)
Costuming Captain Black Jack Randall from Outlander
General 18th century pieces also on the blog:
Sewing 18th Century Pocket Hoops
Sewing 18th Century Petticoats
Sewing an 18th Century Drawstring Bag
Please follow me on Instagram @redshoesredwine for almost daily updates, adventures, and stories! All tutorials, patterns, travel tips, and packing lists are provided free on my blog. I do not charge for them nor allow advertising on my site, but if you would like to donate towards my domain/hosting costs or craft supplies, consider buying me a “coffee”: https://ko-fi.com/redshoesredwine -Thank you, and cheers!
Hi. Big fan of Outlander. I’m absolutely love Brianna’s Bag. Question. I want to dress as Brianna for Halloween and I’m missing the key important thing… Bree’s Bag. I was wondering if you sell bags or make them? Or do you know where I can purchase a bag like hers? I’ve looked on Esty, local thrift stores, ebay, and amazon but had no luck. Do you know the seller on Esty? If so, can you let me know who? Thank you 🙂
Hi Stephanie! The Etsy seller I bought my bag from was hardtwistfarm. Keep looking, I bet all sellers post as they find new items. Search for vintage Guatemalan cross-body bag. Good luck! ❤️
Beautiful work on a fabulous project! I’m wondering how the shirt holds up to washing? I’m assuming it should be hand-washed? But does washing cause the edges of the patches to roll and/or ravel?
Thank you Ane! I’m happy to report it’s holding up well to multiple wears and washes. I did pre-wash all the patches before sewing onto the linen shirt, so that also pre-frayed the patches. Nothing is curling so far. Cotton patches are holding up the best, polyester about the same depending on the weave tightness, and linen is fraying a little bit but that adds to its charm. It’s one of my favorite shirts ❤️
Terry has bought clothes from my Etsy shop. I was blown away. She’s pretty cool.
Very cool!!
Hi. Hello. Howdy. From Texas. I think the patched shirt looks better on along w being finished. Adorable. Thanks for sharing.
Hello Sheila, I really don’t know how I came across you and your wonderful creation! Brava!! Such a beautiful job! I said to myself before even reading your story!! I was so shocked that this was your first embroidery piece!! Honestly it would be my favorite too.💚 I am trying (that is the operative word) to teach myself how to make a simple 1920’s day dress. I am working on it by hand because it’s so relaxing and therapeutic.😊 I go crazy for anything from the “roaring 20’s!!” I read you will be trying a waist coat possibly. I became very interested in you at first reading and I too will be trying to tackle an opera coat later on this year! It’s been a real pleasure. Keep up the fabulous work!!🌷 I will send some pics when I am done. Thank you for sharing! Take care, Eloise🌷🌷
Hi Eloise! Thanks so much for the kind words! I dabble but obsessively. Curious if you’re using a pattern or the “one hour dress” guide for 1920s day dress? Thanks again and I’d love to see pictures when you’re done!! 🌸
I love your shirt! I do a lot of boro style stitching to make bags, cushions, aprons etc. I am about to embark on covering a linen dress and you have totally inspired me to JUST START!!! Thanks
Hi Penelope! Yes! Starting is the hardest part. You got this! Would love to see your finished linen dress, so if you think of me, do share!
Love this idea. I have just bought a combo pack of gumnut baby fabric(from May Gibbs design of 1920s or so) and now have great ideas for using them as a patchwork collection on a simple childs dress . Thanks for your very interesting article
Wonderful! Please share when you’re finished if you think of it. Happy sewing!
I just LOVE this blog post. I pinned it a long time ago and it keeps popping up on my Pinterest feed. Each time it does I still read your post and admire your photos. You have done a lovely job. I hope to make one.
Awe thank you Kim! I hope you make one too, and if you think about it, I’d love to see it!
Your work is stunning…. What an inspiration
Thank you Barbara!!
Hi! You have inspired me to try my first embroidery/patching shirt project!
It looks like your patches are small… It seems they are 1″x1″, 1″x2″, 1″x3″, etc. Is that correct? The first cut is the hardest and I don’t want to cut them too small.
Thank you kindly!
Hi Lynn! Yep, that sounds about right, and I also have some tiny .5” squares, some 2” squares, and in between! I eyeballed most of my pieces and didn’t really measure any of it so they’d be completely random. Have fun with it!
I’m new to the world of Outlander, and also to you and your amazing handiwork. You have inspired me to attempt Brianna’s patch shirt, which I am presently working working on. I’m having so much fun putting it all together.
Thank you Juli! Years later my patchwork shirt is holding up really well and is one of my favorite garments to wear. Hope you love yours as much as I’ve loved mine!