Around this time last year we were marathoning Peaky Blinders and loving every bit of that 1920s-1930s style. I took a particular fondness to Polly Gray with her unapologetically rough fashion (and attitude) through the years. And this was around the time we were planning our New Year’s cruise to ring in the 2020’s, and absolutely planning to wear 1920s outfits on the cruise. So I zeroed in on one of Aunt Pol’s outfits that I could reproduce.
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What a bad bitch! I loved her belted black dress with lace/bead neckline, and really loved her fur trimmed coat. I saw more of this in promo pics than any actual scene, but that didn’t matter to me. If you’re no stranger to the blog, you’ll know that I tend to pick costumes with very little screen time anyway. I like the versatility of the pieces above, and enough ambiguity that I might take liberties while sourcing fabric and constructing the garments.
For her dress, I chose the Monte Carlo Dress pattern by Folkwear. The bodice is sleeveless and drop waisted with a hankerchief hem. And to not spend a gob of money, I chose a polyester crepe fabric with okayish drape. Because it was going to be belted, I didn’t need it to be silky or form fitting.
Pattern: Folkwear 264 Monte Carlo Dress 1920’s Flapper Sewing Pattern
Last year at Costume College I picked up an old lace table runner in the bargain basement sale, so I cut a large diamond from the center of it for the lace neckline. I literally pinned it in place and sewed it on top of the black bodice. I like that the lace brought the neckline up in the front and the back, and it added a little cap sleeve to the arm holes. I also chose to purchase a black cloche hat rather than bugundy, for versatility.
Hat: Maitose Women’s Wool Felt Flowers Church Bowler Hats Black
The hankerchief skirt/hem was fun to make and luckily black hides any imperfections from my still-learning sewing. I found a vintage 1920’s art deco rhinestone belt buckle on Etsy and made a thin black belt for it. Not exact, but damn close!
Search for vintage 1920s art deco rhinestone belt buckle on Etsy
The coat was super fun, stupid easy, and in my opinion the focal point of this costume. I searched for coat patterns from the 1920s and found a vintage McCall 5680 reproduction pattern from Lady Marlowe on Etsy. Then I found an embroidered faux silk fabric on Etsy, used black sheets as a liner. From the pattern, I used view C (without collar). After construction of the coat, which is kind of blah on its own, I safety pinned a faux fur stole to the neckline (I want it to be detachable for other costumes). Instant glamour. The coat was so easy, that I didn’t even take progress photos of its construction.
Pattern: vintage sewing pattern 1920s 20s flapper coat shawl or pointed collar bust 32 b32 English & French
Fabric: Bella Black Embroidered Floral Faux Silk Fabric By The Yard Drapery
Black sheets as liner: SONORO KATE Bed Sheet Set Super Soft Microfiber 1800 Thread Count Luxury Egyptian Sheets 16-Inch Deep Pocket Wrinkle and Hypoallergenic-4 Piece
Faux fur: Soul Young Faux Fur Collar Women’s Neck Warmer Scarf Wrap,Nature,One Size
Before our NYE cruise, my husband and I traveled to Marathon and Big Bend National Park for our anniversary. The dark hallways of the Gage Hotel in Marathon, Texas was the perfect place to snap a few photos of the costume before dinner one night. I couldn’t decide if I like the warm lighting or a noir look, so you get both.
Up next is one of my husband’s Peaky Blinders costumes, worn at Dickens on the Strand in Galveston last December.
“Don’t f**k with the Peaky Blinders” – Polly Gray
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Dear Sheila
Your Aunt Polly dress is spectacular. Dead on spectacular. Nothing else needs to be said really.
I will write a little bit more.
I was so sad to hear that Helen McCrory died last week. Only 52. Very very sad. She was a gifted brilliant actor.
Aunt Polly is one of my favourite characters…..from the first time we see her when she threatens one of the young boys with a gun then gives him hell for letting the baby play with a gun…..to the scene where she tells Grace to get out of town and warns (promises?) her very quietly that if she doesn’t “I’ll kill you myself”. Just terrifying and magnificent.
One of my favourite outfits of Aunt Polly’s is the one she wears in the first scene, a jacket and midi skirt with a belt and black lace up boots. It is a very practical outfit that I am sure a lot of women wore at the time. I am going to see if I can find some patterns and try to make it …or see if I can get it made.
There are similar outfits in the show “The English Game” on Netflix. There is a scene with working women in blouses and ankle length skirts with a leather belt, lace up boots. Really fabulous. There are also lovely evening gowns in the show, but I really like the working women’s costumes.
Not sure why I am writing all this……just so thrilled to see your fantastic creation. Really really something. I think it would be fun to wear this type of clothing all the time. It is flattering on everybody.
That’s it for me.
Hope you are safe and well.
Helen
Very kind words for my costume, thank you so much. I’m so proud of it and also incredibly sad we lost such a talented gift to this world. Too young. She stole every scene, very pointed expressions, lines, and style. I don’t recall the first outfit she was seen in but those working women articles have got to have some 1900-1910s patterns out there somewhere. Wondering if Unique Vintage has some close reproductions from that time as well, I have been eyeballing their trousers. Thanks again for the kind words, Helen!