Sewing My First Robe à la Française

In preparation for Fetes Galantes 2020 (yes, the one the pandemic canceled), I made a robe à la française, or sack-back gown, mock-up to wrap my brain around the confusing construction of this garment that had intimidated me at first sight. I hand stitched, machine stitched, and learned a lot along the way. I ended up finishing the mock-up with all the trim so I can actually wear this lovely gown to an event in the future. Here’s how it turned out…

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Starting from the inside and working my way out, I had just finished a chemise replacement, a new set of stays, and dug my pocket hoops out of the closet. The gown would be built on this foundation. And I used both American Duchess pattern and book as a guide (because I needed all the help I could get).

Pattern: Simplicity 8578 Women’s 18th Century Gown Historical Costume Sewing Pattern, Sizes 14-22

Book: The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style

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When we moved from the suburbs to the city, my most favorite curtains ever were too short for the tall windows in the new house, so they were added to my fabric stash and would be sewn into many costumes. It pleases me to repurpose these gorgeous red and ivory faux silk dupioni curtains into something beautiful.

[Red and ivory curtain costumes: Regency Gown and Open Robe and Sewing a Pack of Poodle Skirts]

I usually cut size 14 in patterns, but I was very nervous about this gown and felt like it would be easier to adjust in than out, so I cut all pieces on a size 16. I loved the contrast of ivory and pink in the American Duchess ensemble, and I had an abundance of red, so I mirrored that contrast in red and ivory for mine. I cut the gown in red and petticoat/stomacher/bows in ivory.

After cutting the large pieces, I used what was left of the ivory for the bows and trim, and started with the 5-loop bows. Using the pieces in the Simplicity pattern, and instructions in the Dressmaking book, I hand stitched 6 bows just to see if I could. I rather enjoyed hand stitching, for the smaller things anyway.

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The trim was super fun! I marked the trim with heat erase fabric pens, and used a wine stopper top for the small scallops. For the large scallops on the bottom trim, I used a wine glass. Go with what you know, right? Then I cut the lines with scallop pinking shears. I have zig zag shears, but I wanted every edge on this gown to be soft. I’m glad I made that decision early on!

Heat erase pens: Madam Sew Heat Erasable Fabric Marking Pens with 4 Refills for Quilting, Sewing and Dressmaking (4 Piece Set)

Scalloped pinking shears: NEJLSD Pinking Shears for Fabric Scalloped 5mm, Stainless Dressmaking Sewing Scissors Steel Handled Professional Zig Zag Fabric Craft Scissors 9.3 inch (Orange)

The construction of the petticoat was very easy, as I have made many, many petticoats without a pattern in the past. Despite that, I made no modifications to the pattern at all. It sat beautifally over the pocket hoops.

[Related: Sewing 18th Century Petticoats]

I took liberties on the stomacher and made one detachable piece rather than two permanant pieces that close in the center. I did include covered buttons above and between bows to make it seem like there is a center closure. And more is more anyway!

I gotta tell you, trimming this petticoat was very satisfying and confidence boosting. I followed the pattern guidelines exactly, marking the petticoat with a heat erase pen. I hand gathered the trim, pinned in place, and machine stitched (with a zig zag stitch) the trim to the petticoat. Then I ironed the trim down for a crisp, crinkled look. I also referred to the Dressmaking book for the 1760’s ribbon choker necklace and made one with spare ivory trim. Mine is wider than the choker in the book, but I do have a long neck so it’s okay.

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Onto the gown, which is where my confidence died. I was a little confused by the contruction in the back, and intimidated all over again. I started to construct the pieces and followed all directions, draped what I could, and hit a brick wall. I needed to mentally get over the hump, so I dicked around and upgraded an 18th century bergere hat as a distraction.

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I continued to dick around and added gathered oganza ribbon as trim across the top of the stomacher and along the center of the choker. I love the bright white against the ivory!

1.5″ white ribbon: Outus 1-1/2 Inch Shimmer Sheer Organza Ribbon, 49 Yard (White)

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Well, it was time to put on my big girl pants and soldier through this. All in a day’s work (literally) I figured out where I got stuck (like, read the directions, Sheila) and finished the construction, including those Watteau pleats and magical twill closure thingie underneath. Okay, I guess that wasn’t so hard…

Okay, but I’ll be damned if I was going to hand gather all the trim for the gown. No. Way. Believe it or not I had never used a gathering foot until this moment! I watched some YouTube videos, tested tension/gathering ratios on scrap fabric, and I was rolling!! I had yards and yards and yards of gathered trim ready to go in about a week or so.

I also used this time to cut and gather the sleeve flounces. Everything just made so much sense from here on. I pinned the trim to the gown as I had done with the petticoat, following the pattern instructions completely, and machine stitched (with a zig zag stitch) the trim and flounces to the gown.

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Okay, I’m in love! Check out the pinned vs. stitched and ironed comparison with the trim above!

This is no longer a mock-up but a gorgeous gown that needs to be worn to a ball or in a spring garden. Sometimes inanimate objects need names (like cars, boats, and costumes), so I have named her Amaryllis. Isn’t she a beaut?!

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For the finishing touches, I purchased faux organza and made engageantes from the Dressmaking book. I added more gathered ribbon trim around the gown’s neckline, made a grey 5-loop bow, and purchased a vintage brooch on Etsy. I will wear this gown with pearl drop earrings and my black French court pompadour shoes from American Duchess.

Organza fabric: mds Pack of 5 Yard Bridal Solid Sheer Organza Fabric Bolt for Wedding Dress,Fashion, Crafts, Decorations Silky Shiny Organza 44”- White

1.5″ dark grey ribbon: Silver Shimmer Sheer Organza Ribbon, 1-1/2″ X 25Yd

Earrings: White Swarovski Glass Pearl Teardrops on Gold Plated or Silver Plated Hinged Lever Back Hoops

I finished the mock-up around the time Fetes got canceled. I was crushed, so I didn’t even try the completed outfit on, and decided to hold off on making my actual planned gown until we knew if/when things would normalize. The plan is to make a saphhire gown with platinum petticoat and include gold in the trim (above left). For my husband’s suit I ordered some jacquard fabric from India, charcoal dupioni for his waistcoat and/or breeches, and I plan to line everything with gold silk (above right). I’ll post updates when I start these projects, as well as wearing Amaryllis in all her glory.

[Related: Hair Cushions: An Experimental Book Review of The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty]

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