Last summer I made a sleeveless spencer in blue and styled a reticule and raven brooch with my Regency gown. All that was left to make for this ensemble was a bonnet. Quick fabric bonnets are nice, but I wanted to try my hand at a more formal millinery project, and chose to make a raven black poke bonnet that would be a versatile statement piece. Here’s how that all came together.
[Related: A Quick Regency Sleeveless Spencer: Historical Hogwarts Edition]
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I had toyed with the idea of a gold/bronze bonnet to wear with my Regency Ravenclaw ensemble, but I wanted the option to wear a new poke bonnet with other Regency pieces* in my closet, and so the all-black poke bonnet found on Pinterest was the inspiration for this bonnet. I want to be able to dress up, or down, and accessories willy nilly! *Links to my blog posts about these other Regency pieces I’ve made are at the bottom of this post.
The most satisfying parts of making this bonnet was working through my craft/fabric stash, and buying a print-at-home pattern. I only needed to purchase buckram, and I have enough of the roll for another hat or two down the road. I used leftover black satin, felt for padding, craft wire, and yes, that’s painter’s tape holding the wire as I stitch it in place. From the Ophelia pattern I chose Brim 1 with a tapered pipe/headpiece.
Pattern: Ophelia Bonnet 1810-1820 Regency Poke Bonnet
Buckram: Buckram Fabric – by the Yard
The least satisfying part of making this bonnet was all. the. hand. stitching. I had to do. I have little patience for it and prefer to just shove things through the machine. I taped, stiched, pinned, stitched, and on and on. And because this was my first buckram project, I didn’t modify anything (as I usually tend to do). I followed the directions explicitly, with an exception of using materials I had on hand rather than specific millinery supplies.
Once I could see the shape of the bonnet come together, I followed Jennifer Serr’s blog post on The Sewing Room Alameda for padding and finishing techniques. One of her inspiration pieces was the same as mine, so it was great to have her blog as a guide. Although I did cut some corners, because that’s what I do.
I used basting spray to temporarily hold layers in place while my big dumb fumbling hands hand stitched everything in place, and then I used pinking shears to trim edges that would be hidden by bias and trim. Seriously, where has basting spray been all my sewing life?!
Basting spray: Therm O Web Spray N Bond Quilt Basting Adhesive Spray, 7.2 OZ (204g)
A happy Sheila is a glue gunning Sheila, so I was super excited to get to the trim. I added bias to the brim, as directed, but I left the top edge rough. I machine gathered several yards of 1″ and 1.5″ satin ribbon, then ironed everything flat (I just love that look) and I happily hot-glued all the trimmings onto the bonnet. I even tucked in some black rooster feathers in the front thinking they’d look ravenish enough. Yes, yes, and YES! Not pictured is velvet ribbon on the inside brim to help keep the bonnet secured to my hair.
I’m in love!! I had hoped to wear this bonnet with my blue sleeveless spencer to a Regency picnic, but weather thwarted my plans. I’ll have to bring the ensemble to Galveston with me next month and maybe get pictures there. I’ll update this post if/when I do.
More Regency costuming on Red Shoes. Red Wine.
My First Foray Into the Regency Era
A Quick Regency Sleeveless Spencer
A Quick Regency Sleeveless Spencer: Historical Hogwarts Edition
A Simple Regency Summer Picnic Gown
Sewing a Regency Waistcoat (and Slip Vest)
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I love your designs! I’ve been pinning your work on Pinterest, then I thought, “Why am I not reading her blog posts?” 🙂 I think I’ll have fun trying some of these!
Thank you Beverly!