Several years ago I trimmed an 18th century bergère (a flat-brimmed straw hat with a shallow crown) rather modestly for a Claire inspired Outlander costume. I’ve since never worn it. So last year while working on my gown and accessories for Fetes Galantes (yes, the one the pandemic canceled), I upgraded my hat using The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty for more appropriate, and more fabulous, hat trimming.
[Related: Hair Cushions: An Experimental Book Review of The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Beauty]
This post contains affiliate links. If you click an affiliate link and make a purchase, Red Shoes. Red Wine. will earn a small commission for the referral at no cost to you. Read more about affiliates & disclaimers here. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
I was also inspired the 18th century beauty lecture led by Lauren Stowell and Abby Cox from American Duchess at Costume College in 2019, when hats and other accessories from their second book were passed around the class to see and feel. I knew then that my bergere was blah and needed more bling.
[Related: Sewing 18th Century Hat Trim]
I didn’t have much of a plan, but I knew I wanted to at least make the ribbon trim from page 87. I also didn’t want to remove the trim from the hat’s first version, as the indienne fabric used was a result of my late dog chewing a huge hole in my favorite linen duvet cover, so I upcycled it. As a reminder of her, it stays.
More is more, so after I trimmed the crown with the black ribbon and an ivory 5-loop bow (page 90 from The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them With Style), I wanted more. I pinned knife pleats around the brim with a dark grey sheer ribbon, and machine stitched them in place.
1.5″ dark grey ribbon: Silver Shimmer Sheer Organza Ribbon, 1-1/2″ X 25Yd
Why stop there? Even more is best, so I also added artificial peonies. I love the way everything subtly matches the original linen trim.
Referring back to the American Duchess beauty book, I also lined the underside of the hat with faux silk and trimmed the edge with black ribbon.
1″ black ribbon: Topenca Supplies 1 Inch x 50 Yards Double Face Solid Satin Ribbon Roll, Black
More? Sure, why not! Loving the ostentaciousness of feathers in the 18th century, I added curled ostrich feathers to mine. I know there’s a more proper way than using my fingernail to pinch/curl the feathers, but that is what I did. And threw in some ivory rooster feathers for good measure.
Ostrich feathers: Sowder 14-16inch(35-40cm) Ostrich Feathers Plume for Wedding Centerpieces Home Decoration Pack of 10pcs(White)
Rooster feathers: Shekyeon 16-18inch 40-45cm Rooster Coque Tail Feather for Costume Decoration Pack of 20 (Beige/Ivory)
I think that’s plenty, and I love it so much! I haven’t had the opportunity to wear it yet, as we’re now almost a year into this pandemic, and all events have been canceled. But I may try this, and my red and ivory robe a la francaise, on and go take pictures outdoors somewhere this spring. I’ll post pictures here if I do.
Up next are 18th century ribbon garters that I made for myself and friends who were also going to attend Fetes Galantes, and then the red and ivory robe a la francaise that I made as a mock-up and ended up finishing because it was so pretty!
Please follow me on Instagram @redshoesredwine for almost daily updates, adventures, and stories! All tutorials, patterns, travel tips, and packing lists are provided free on my blog. I do not charge for them nor allow advertising on my site, but if you would like to donate towards my domain/hosting costs or craft supplies, consider buying me a “coffee”: https://ko-fi.com/redshoesredwine -Thank you, and cheers!