Following yesterday’s post on my Regency bonnet, I’m sharing the 1790’s gown and open robe I made to go with the bonnet, inclduing a short pattern review of American Duchess/Simplicity 8941 pattern. This was my first foray into historical costuming the Regency era, and it has felt like a bit of a gateway drug.
[Related: A Quick Regency Tartan Bonnet]
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I was in a huge hurry to made a full outfit for Dickens on the Strand in Galveston after prior plans were canceled. I had about a week, which even for high-energy-me is a lot to power through when the whole outfit needed to be made. I worked from the outside in, knowing that if I couldn’t get to the underpinnings (spoiler alert: I didn’t), I could use off the rack items. Maybe even skip setting in the sleeves on the white gown if needed (I did have enough time for the sleeves, barely). So I made the bonnet and sash first, red open robe next, and white gown last.
The open robe went really quick, and I am already in love with this pattern. I used my favorite blood red faux silk curtains from the old house and it turned out to have the loveliest drape and sheen. I pleated, rather than gathering, the back, and made no other modifications. Honestly I wasn’t even sure how, or if, it would fit. Not having time for a mock-up, I trusted the size 14 would be like all pattern size 14s and fit just fine.
Pattern: Simplicity Sewing Pattern S8941 R5 Misses’ Costume by American Duchess, Size 14-16-18-20-22
I could already tell there would be some weirdness in the chest. I have a long torso and large breasts…which is where the sash comes in, and I’ll explain that workaround next.
For the white gown, I used sheets from the old house (notice the stash busting theme here?) for both outside and liner. As I did with the open robe back, I pleated the back of the gown. When I tried this on, I realized my mistake by not making a mock-up. The front of the gown from the neckline to the gathers beneath the breasts measures ~3.5″ and the measurment from underbreast to nipple is ~4″. This isn’t enough fabric to cover my breasts, so if/when I remake the white gown, I’ll add 1.5″ to the bottom of the bodice front pattern piece(s) to accomadate my extra curvature. Now with a sash added, I can cover up the too-high underbust line and be totally find with it.
Sloppy mistakes and all, I’m very pleased with how it turned out. It’s not super complimentary to my hourglass figure (I don’t think any Regency gowns would be), but I do love how I feel wearing it. It’s striking and feminine, and machine washable! Up next is the rest of the outfit including accessories, and our stroll around the Historic Strand District of Galveston for Dickens.
More Regency costume posts on Red Shoes. Red Wine.