Costuming Jack Randall from Outlander: Waistcoat & Coat

It’s no secret I’m a huge fan of Diana Gabaldon’s Outlander novels (and Outlander series on Starz), as I have made, purchased, and worn many Claire costumes and accessories.  But special points to my husband for putting up with my sewing/costuming madness, and for getting talked into wearing Oulander’s main villain, Captain Black Jack Randall’s costume for me.  I’m sure every man wants to be Jamie, and I’m sure every woman wants her husband to be Jamie…but…well, someone has to be the villain.  My husband’s costume took me months and months and months to make, but I’m so proud of it.

This blog post is specifically for the waistcoat and coat build.  Also available on the blog is the post specifically for the build of the shirt and pants, and stay tuned for another post specifically for the gathering and modification of accessories (tricorn hat, sword and belt/frog, boots, etc.).

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Since I hadn’t seen anyone costume Jack Randall (please let me know if you do or know someone who has, I’d love to see it!), my only resources were promotional pictures and screenshots from the show and pins on Pinterest from other fans (a special thank you to KnitzyBlonde from the Outlander/Highland Inspired Costume Facebook group that I’m in, who crochets Outlander inspired pieces, for uploading the center photo above, which was most helpful).  Not having sewn any 18th century pieces for men before, I did my very best within my skill level, and hope no one spits on my husband for wearing an imperfect representation (or for costuming a complete scoundrel for that matter).  I bought every single gentlemen’s patterns from JP Ryan and hoped they would work with minor modifications.

Waistcoat

After my blissful completion of the shirt and frustrating I-don’t-know-what with the pants, I needed the waistcoat to go smoothly, and it did!  I used JP Ryan’s 1750’s – 1770’s Waistcoat Pattern (42″ Chest) without the sleeves.  I bought red melton wood for Randall’s signature Red Coat, and navy lining for the lining and the back of waistcoat.

I squared off the front at the bottom making the angles closer to 90 degrees.  The waistcoat came together rather quickly.

A larger modification was to cut off the waistcoat just below the waist in the back, and I used the spare material to make cinches (for lack of a more appropriate term).  In some scenes, which I uncomfortably watched repeatedly and screenshot for reference photos, this appeared to be the screen accurate modification to JP Ryan’s waistcoat pattern.

Coat

The outer coat was slightly more complicated than the waistcoat, and extremely satisfying to see it come together.  I used a combination of JP Ryan’s 1770-1780 Frock Coat Pattern (44″ Chest) and JP Ryan’s 1750’s Coat with Military Variations for the Officer or Enlisted Man (44″ Chest).  In the interest of screen accuracy, I used the Military Coat pattern’s View A for most of the coat, but I enlarged the cuffs, used the collar from the Frock Coat pattern, and the officer’s lapel from Military Coat’s View B.

Randall’s cuffs are huge, so I had a lot of fun almost doubling the length of this pattern piece.  Instead of interfacing, I used wool on both the inner and lining of the cuff, which gave it the stiffness I wanted.

The Officer’s lapel piece was almost perfect as is, but I did shorten it for screen accuracy.  As is, the lapel went way below the belt line, but Randall’s only slightly dipped below his belt line.

I skipped some of the odd pleating in the back and left a slit open in the back center so the coat could be pinned (for riding?).

Finishing

The trim was fun to do, and could’ve been extremely expensive if I had gone full screen accurate gold threaded military trim.  Instead, I bought a 27 yard roll of gold trim on Amazon (HALEN 1/2″ Yellow Gold Bullion Braid Trim with Diagonal Rib: 27 Yard Roll) that had the exact diagonal details that I was looking for and 1/3 the cost.  Yes, it’s still pretty expensive, but the detailing is spot on, and in my opinion the most striking feature of his uniform.

I sat in front of the TV for several hours and pre-folded the trim in the exact diagonal directions on Randall’s coat.  And another several hours positioning the trim on the coat with pins exactly as Randall’s.  Now, are you ready to cringe?  I used hot glue to attach the trim to the lapel.  Don’t judge me!  I love hot gluing things and you’ll have to pry my glue gun from my cold dead hands.  Don’t worry, I tested sewing versus gluing on scraps and was very pleased with the glue fixture.  I have a steady hand and was very very careful.

I realized in retrospect that I should’ve sewn the lapel into the front closure of the coat, but after gluing the trim, there was no turning back.  So I hand sewed and hot glued the lapel into place…permanently.  I also sewed hook and eyes to the tips of the collars to hold them in place onto the lapel, as if they’re just barely tucked in.

I used the same trim on the waistcoat and cuffs in the same spacing and diagonal pattern as Randall’s.  And I enlisted my husband to hand sew his gold buttons (also an Amazon find: C&C Metal Products 5351 Rope Edge Dome Metal Button, Size 36 Ligne, Gold, 36-Pack).  Isn’t it glorious?  I’m so proud!

Previous: Costuming Jack Randall from Outlander: Shirt & Pants

Next: Costuming Jack Randall from Outlander: Accessories

Outlander inspired costumes also on the blog:

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1

Outlander Inspired Druid Lanterns (DIY)

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 3

Costuming Outlander Inspired “Cross Creek” Claire

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (c. 1945)

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (Additions)

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 2 (& the Red Shoes)