Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1

My mother tried to get me to read Outlander by Diana Gabaldon for 20 years.  So after it aired on Starz, I quit resisting my mother and read the first book.  I was hooked!  Hooked on the show and hooked on the novels (which took two years to read).  I love the character of Claire and wanted to wear her 18th century clothing.

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Images: Outlander on Starz

At the time, Simplicity had yet to release their version of Claire’s dresses (Simplicity Creative Patterns 8161), so I had nothing to guide me.  I wanted to wear the iconic outfit in the first season’s promotional photos, but had a hell of a time finding screen accurate plaid.  So I opted for several of her lesser known pieces (peacock top, brown skirt, flower stomacher) combined with her signature crocheted cowl.  The brown skirt will give me more options to mix and match other pieces.

I found more historically accurate (and screen accurate) patterns by JP Ryan (18th Century Jackets Pattern), and worked through the pieces according to the instructions.  The only modification I made was the shirt length between B and C views to match Claire’s length.  The stomacher was made with no modifications.

The skirt was a bit more of a struggle, since I wanted to match the pleats in Claire’s promo stills.  The flat front with pleats all the way around the sides and back was very important to me for aesthetics and garment weight.  So I laid 10 yards of heavy upholstery fabric on the floor and pleated by sight.  This almost broke my machine for how thick it was.  I banded the top with scrap material and ran a drawstring through the waist (hidden beneath shirt).

[Updated skirt tutorial without a pattern: Sewing 18th Century Petticoats]

As for undergarments, I wore an old chemise from a prior costume, an Elizabethan bum roll, and an under bust corset.  Again, the Simplicity Outlander patterns were not available at the time I made this costume, so I went with what I had.  I thought I might eventually make a proper chemise, bum roll, and 18th century stays but decided these were just fine.  Besides, I do appreciate the help of the steel boning with my terrible posture.

To accessorize the outfit, I purchase a recreation of her cowl in barley brown from KnitPlayLove on Etsy and Outlander inspired (book) silver Jacobite ring and Outlander inspired (book) pearl necklace from Hamilton & Young in Edinburgh Scotland.  And since I have brown eyes, book-Claire has honey eyes, and show-Claire has blue eyes, I went with blue contacts to match show-Claire.  I already have the hair and pasty white skin…

I first wore Claire at Comicpalooza in Houston in June, then DragonCon in Atlanta in September.  Why I stubbornly continue to wear bulky clothing in such a hot locations is beyond me, so by the end of the night in Atlanta, the cowl came off.  Peter Airborne was able to snap a few photos before I removed the cowl.

Thankfully, more appropriate weather for Claire was at the Texas Renaissance Festival in November.  Highland Fling themed weekend was the perfect setting to wear the complete outfit (cowl included).

My husband and friends joined in on the fun that day, some in costume, and some wearing warning shirts and devilish smiles.

So what’s next on my costume wishlist?  Well, I’m obsessed with Claire’s season 1 looks, so I have plans to switch out her accessories from other scenes (thank you, brown skirt that goes with everything).  I’ll be making two more stomachers, a cape, an apron, and have purchased several more of KnitPlayLove’s crocheted reproductions (caplet and arm warmers).  I also have plans to make Claire’s through-the-stones dress from the 1940s.

Strange, the Things You Remember…

    -from Outlander by Diana Gabaldon

Update: I’ve been busy working on many more Outlander inspired creations!

Outlander inspired costumes also on the blog:

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 2 (& the Red Shoes)

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (Additions)

Outlander Inspired Druid Lanterns (DIY)

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 3

Costuming Outlander Inspired “Cross Creek” Claire

Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1 (c. 1945)

Costuming Captain Black Jack Randall from Outlander


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11 Replies to “Costuming Claire from Outlander: Season 1”

  1. Hi my friend! An upholstery sewing machine is the ticket!
    -Sharon

  2. If you are looking for a pattern that is pretty close to the skirt in the promo, spoonflower has a fabric called ancient plaid. There is both a brown and a grey that are the closest I have found, although it does not come in wool.

    1. Thank you Lauren! I looked for that pattern forever, and would happily add it to the closet if it’s still available.

  3. Did you only use heavy upholstery fabric? Not broadcloth?

    1. Hi Jana! Yes, just upholstery fabric I found on sale in Houston.

  4. Jennie Miller says: Reply

    Sheila! Could I possibly commission you to make me some of Claire’s clothes?!
    I have Arthritis, Lupus, epilepsy, Fibromyalgia, Diabetes, among other things including severe bursitis/arthritis/tendinitis of the right shoulder I’m I’m currently in intense physical therapy for it. I just had my 3 month check up and we decided to do another round of cortisone shot and more pt for another 3 months to evaluate for surgery.

    Otherwise I would try to do it myself even though I’m a novice at sewing. I know machine basics. But have an embroidery machine now I’ve never operated. Eeek ! Lol ! I’ve made things like quilts and eye masks. But not clothes I watched my mom and friends. Never actually done it myself. If it weren’t for this shoulder , I could probably try it it. Dr. Said absolutely not. And with active seizures Nurologist says absolutely not.
    At any rate please consider my plea, and email me with your complete fee for finished project for the first outfit size 2xl I will send more details as needed. Thank you in advance!!

    Sincerely
    Jennie Miller
    864-341-1307

    P.S.
    If you call, please leave a message and I will return your call ASAP. I don’t answer numbers I don’t recognize. I get a lot of sales calls.

    1. Oh my dear Jennie I wish I had the free time to do commissions, but I’m slow and crazy busy with work. My own projects are backlogged. That makes me frustrated and sad when I look at all the stacks of fabric around the craft room. But there’s much hope for you! There are a lot of for sale items in all sizes out there, and others available for commission (people way faster and more skilled than I am). You just need your measurements and can find pieces that will work for you. Good thing about 18c highlands clothing is that it’s modular. Just build from the inside out (under-garments, then outer-garments). Try Facebook marketplace and eBay, and Etsy!

  5. Jenny Stenman Ek says: Reply

    Your creations are just insane! 🤩 Thank you so much for cosplay inspiration! But I have to ask; can you be more specific in the fabrics you use for the non English readers 😅🙈 I don’t find what upholstery fabrics mean on Google… Is it a kind of woolmix? Gonna dig in your blog when I’m starting on my dream projekt; Claire’s outfits 😍 Thank you!

    1. Hi Jenny! And thank you very much!! Originally I made the skirt with a herringbone, likely a polyblend. Not a true silk or wool tweed, I would not have been able to afford it. It’s very heavy and too warm for Texas climate, so I remade the skirt with a lightweight linen. Lately I’ve used a lot of Melton wool (for cold weather) and linen (for warm weather) for additional Claire pieces. Hope this helps!

      1. Thank you so very much! I totally get it now 😍 I must say; I got so stunned by your red shoes, that blogpost was like a Kinder egg: 3 surprises in one since it gave me more than one “ahaa”-feeling on how to figure things out 🤩 Work love from Sweden🇸🇪

        1. You’re very welcome Jenny! I’m sure your Claire will be stunning! ❤️

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